14th annual Valdez Ice
Climbing Festival
February 13 - 16, 1998
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Prizes donated by
Beaver Sports, Chugach Mountain
Adventures, Black Diamond Equipment, Teton
Gravity Research, The Prospector (Valdez), Valdez Kayak Supply, and
The Access Fund.
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The 14th Annual Valdez Ice Climbing Festival
Feb 13-16 1998
Over 50 climbers descended on Valdez for this years Ice Climbing Festival. Various Social events took place as
well, as 65 people attending the Bonfire bouldering and barbecue session at the spit. A Bouldering demonstration
by Anchorage climber Jay Rowe and a drytooling exhibition from Chuck Comstock and Eddie
Phay, where one climbs bare rock with Ice Climbing gear was enjoyed by all.
Deep snow keep most climbers near the roadside climbs however the Ice Climbs were in Excellent shape. Ice
Climbs completed of note were 2 separate ascents of 'Wowie Zowie' on the same Day by different parties. One team
from Anchorage included Rowe and partner Andrew Steiner and later on that same Saturday afternoon
2 Canadians from Quebec Rene Cote and Benoit Audit summited this classic climb in Mineral Creek.
While their daughter Nina was in Japan competing in the Olympics, Roger and Mary Kemppel completed 'Hung
Jury'. Josh Sonkist and Eddie Phay climbed the thin Pillars of the climb 'Loves Way' in Keystone
Canyon. A Slide Show By Ralph Tingey of his 40 years of Climbing , rescue work, Park Ranger and Alaskan
Dog Mushing was enjoyed at the Tsaina Lodge. Black Diamond Equipment sent 2 Gear Representatives so climbers
could check out the latest in equipment for use.
The Speed climbing event was a huge success as 17 men and 6 women tackled the first 120 ' of 'Keystone
Greensteps' against the clock with a rope from above. Paul Turecki of Chickaloon defended his title he
won in 97 with a smooth and efficient climb of 1:37 followed by Doug Heinrick of Salt Lake City in 1:53
and Eddie Phay of Anchorage placing third in 2:05. Local Sean Abellana also competed taking 6th
place in 2.32. In the largest womens field ever Karen Hilton won the Womens Division with 3:13 followed
by Valdez resident Lori Bennet and Anna Jansen from Anchorage took third place. The event went was
a huge success once again, as all the climbers worked well together holding the speed climbing contest and other
events.
Speed Climbing Results
| Name |
Time |
Prize |
| 1. Paul Turecki |
1:37 |
Kevlar Helmet from Valdez Medical Clinic & Kayak Supply |
| 2. Doug Heinrick |
1:53 |
Patagonia Jacket from Beaver Sports |
| 3. Eddy Phay |
2:05 |
Exspress Ice Screw from Black Diamond Equipment |
| 4. Benoit Audit |
2:10 |
| 5. Rene Cote |
2:14 |
| 6. Sean Abellana |
2:32 |
| 7. Dave Moss |
2:33 |
| 8. Steven Fresch |
2:38 |
| 9. Chris Harmstrom |
2:47 |
| 10. Tim Coisek |
2:47 |
| 11. Brian Teale |
2:48 |
| 12. Chris Mishmash |
3:42 |
| 13. Ralph Tingey |
3:51 |
1st in Seniors Division |
| 14. Chuck Comstock |
4:07 |
| 15. Rodger Kemppel |
4:20 |
| 16. Lance Enebeck |
4:31 |
| 17. Sean Deal |
8:35 |
1st in Juniors Division |
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Womens Division |
| Name |
Time |
Prize |
| 1. Karen Hilton |
3:13 |
Ice Age Gloves from Black Diamond Equipment |
| 2. Lori Bennet |
3:50 |
Rocktronics Rock climbers wrap from The Access Fund |
| 3. Anna Jansen |
6:49 |
BlackSpoon coat from Chugach Mountain Adventures |
| 4. Daphne Tingey |
7:55 |
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| 5. Sheri Tingey |
10:37 |
| 6. Mary Kemppel |
12:43 |
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Other Prizes
Black Diamond Express Screw at Bonfire drawing
Locking carabiners, waterbottle and Petzl helmet
from the Access Fund given away at Access Fund Drawing.
7 new members signed up for The Access Fund
Carabiners, runners, blue water rope bag from Beaver Sports
Valdez given away at bonfire drawing.
See ya next year!
A big Thanks to our Sponsors:
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Black Diamond Equipment
Beaver Sports Valdez
The Access Fund
Valdez Medical Clinic and Kayak Supply / Andrew Embick M.D.
Chugach Mountain Adventures-
Brian Teale
St. Elias Alpine Guides
/ Richard Villa
Teton
Gravity Research
Chinook Books and Coffee Valdez
Virtual
Valdez
Ralph Tingey
Valdez
Village Inn
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