Muldrow Traverse

FIRST ASCENT: March 17 to June 7, 1913 by the Rev. Hudson Stuck, Harry P. Karstens, Robert G. Tatum and Walter Harper. After leaving Nenana by dog team, the party followed the overland route pioneered in 1910 by the Sourdough Expedition to reach McGonagall Pass and the Muldrow Glacier. Once on the ice, they followed the line of the unsuccessful 191 2 Parker-Browne Expedition but had to force a new route up the earthquake-shattered ridge that now carries Karstens' name to gain the stepped basins of the Harper Glacier. From their high camp, the way to the South Summit was arduous but straightforward.
POINT OF DEPARTURE: Wonder Lake
ALTITUDE GAIN: 18,335 feet (5,589 meters)
ROUND TRIP DISTANCE: 72 miles (1 16 kilometers)
TIME: 21 to 35 days
CRUX: Karstens Ridge and the Coxcomb between 10,930 feet
(3,331 meters) and 14,600 feet (4,450 meters).
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: 600 to 1,800 feet (200 to 600 meters) of
fixed rope and 12 snow pickets to protect exposed sections of the knife-edge ridge.
ROUTE: Since climbers are not permitted by the National Park Service to use air support within the park boundaries, parties attempting the Muldrow Glacier Route must walk in from Wonder Lake during the summer months, or use skis and dog teams to reach the glacier from the park entrance during the late spring, an overland distance of nearly 84 miles (1 38 kilometers).

The more popular approach from Wonder Lake descends to the McKinley River and then follows the East Fork of Clearwater Creek to Cache Creek and McGonagall Pass, a distance of 22 miles (35 kilometers). Depending on the loads being carried and the difficulties encountered in fording the McKinley River, the trek may take from two to four days.

From the McGonagall Pass at 5,720 feet (1,743 meters), the route generally follows the right or northern side of the Muldrow Glacier up to the Lower lcefall over a distance of 5 miles (8 kilometers). Since the Muldrow is one of McKinley's most active glaciers, the route description for the lower section must be generalized. Some parties have reported travelling over what might as well have been two completely different glaciers during ascent and descent.
Most climbers force a way through the Lower lcefall along its right margin and pass along the base of Pioneer Ridge beneath a potentially dangerous hanging glacier. From this point, the route regains the left center of the Muldrow and zig-zags upward to the 8,500-foot (2,591 -meter) level opposite the base of Mt. Carpb . Here, at the base of the Great Icefall, turn left and proceed south along the flanks of Mt. Caro6 and Mt. Koven toward Karstens Notch at 10,930 feet (3,331 meters). @r-om the notch, gain the knife edge of Karstens Ridge and proceed upward for 1.2 miles (1.6 kilometers) to the prominent step at 12,100 feet (3,688 meters). This is the only good campsite on the ridge itself. Continue along the ridge through the rugged Coxcomb section to Browne Tower at 14,600 feet (4,450 meters). The ridge is the crux of the climb. Early in the season, Karstens Ridge and the Coxcomb tend to be more icy than in late June or July when new snow sometimes requires climbers to shovel their way upward. As much as 1,800 feet or as little as 600 feet of fixed rope (600 or 200 meters) may be needed to safeguard difficult sections of the route depending on conditions.

From the granite blocks of Browne Tower move up and right, north, through Parker Pass--the name Hudson Stuck gave the broad gateway to the stepped basins of the Harper Glacier--and find a passage through the first icefall at 16,000 feet (4,877 meters) along its right margin. Continue upward through the second icetall at 1 7,000 feet (5,182 meters). Once through the second series of ice blocks, continue in a south- westerly direction toward the prominent notch in the skyline, Denali Pass. At the 18,320-foot (5,584-meter) pass, turn right and climb a broad snow ramp running northeast to the North Summit, or turn left and ascend the ridge that fish- hooks to the southeast to reach the 20,320-foot (6,194-meter) South Summit. CAMPS: Seven or eight camps are normally made in the course of ascending the Muldrow Glacier Route. Parties prepared for high winds and a spectacular view sometimes camp at the base of Browne Tower (14,600 feet), while those preferring a secure night's sleep camp in the lower basin of the Harper Glacier at the 15,000- foot level. Climbers planning to traverse the mountain and descend via the West Buttress Route set their highest camp below Denali Pass. Those planning to de- scend via the Muldrow Glacier Route normally do not.